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Waves and the Science of Surfing — Met Éireann launches first Podcast episode of 2020

Met Éireann’s first monthly podcast of 2020, ‘Waves and the Science of Surfing’, was released this morning (31 January 2020). In this episode, Met Éireann presenters Liz Walsh and Noel Fitzpatrick talk to Met Éireann marine researcher Dr Sarah Gallagher, and professional bodyboarder and surf coach Seamus McGoldrick of Sligo Surf Experience, about how waves form and travel. They discuss the best ways for surfers and forecasters to predict their development. This is Met Éireann’s eighth episode since the podcast’s official launch in 2019.

Co-presenter of the monthly podcast series, Met Éireann’s Liz Walsh said: “The weather affects everyone, including surfers. Ireland’s reputation is steadily growing as one of the world’s best surfing locations. In this episode we learn the reasons behind the regular arrival of large swells on these shores and the quality of our numerous surf breaks.

“Searching for and riding new, powerful waves in Ireland and around the world requires extensive research and training. On the podcast we hear about the preparation that goes into high-level surfing, and the physical and mental benefits that draw surfers of all abilities into the ocean.”

Co-presenter Noel Fitzpatrick said: “In this latest episode, we learn how massive amounts of energy stored in the Atlantic’s waves can reshape our coastline, toss huge boulders inland and potentially be harnessed for producing electricity. It is a fascinating topic, which I’m sure our listeners will love. Finally, we look at how climate change may influence Ireland’s waves and how surfers are tackling the broader environmental issues affecting our oceans.”

Liz concluded: “We’ve seen a steady increase of our listenership and we’ve received positive feedback about what we’re trying to do. We are always excited to hear suggestions from listeners for new episodes, so please get in touch with us at”

All of Met Éireann’s Podcast episodes are available on iTunes for download. One episode is uploaded each month. If you have missed any previous episodes, you can still catch up on all things weather by going onto the Met Éireann website

Met Éireann is a division of the Department of Housing, Planning and Local Government.

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